Pro-B3 1200 AirS

Pro-B3 1200 AirS

Fastest battery generator on the market.
It’s superior light anywhere.

Features
• Fast recycling times: 0.06-1.8 s
• Short flash duration: 1/2200-1/7400 s with standard Pro-B head and ProHead
• High capacity: 300 flashes at full power and more than 30.000 flashes at lowest power
• Low weight: Just 8,8 kg (19 lb) incl. battery
• Compact and handy: (w) 17 x (d) 24 x (h) 28 cm (6.7x9.4x11 in) incl. handle
• Wide power range: 8 f-stops (1200-9 Ws)
• Integrated radio sync: Profoto AirS module with up to 300 m operating range, sync times down to 1/1500 s. The antenna is integrated in the module
• Long battery life: Advanced LiFe battery with 1200 charge cycles
• Improved lamp sockets: Safe and secure connection, allowing “hot-plugging”
• Bright model light: 250 W model light with standard Pro-Head’s even in battery operation



Information Technical data Nomenclature User's guide

Read the Frequently Asked Questions here

The Profoto Pro-B3 1200 AirS is the fastest 1200Ws pack on the market, with a recycling time between 0.06 to 1.8 s, giving up to 16 flashes/sec.

Plus, the very short f ash durations of the Pro-B3 make it easy to freeze movement. The Pro-B3 AirS can be used while recharging.

Smallest and lightest

Pro-B3 1200 AirS is one of the smallest and lightest 1200Ws battery generators on the market and measures only

(w) 17 x (d) 24 x (h) 28 cm (6.7x9.4x11 in) incl. handle.

The weight of the complete unit with battery is only 8,8 kg (19 lb). The generator offers and outstanding reliability and is easy to use.


Licenced to travel

The battery is licensed to travel and has been tested and certified according to UN manual of Test & Criteria, Part III, Sub-section 38.3. Making the battery f ight approved all over the world.



Product No.

900980 Pro-B3 1200 AirS LiFe
900996 Pro-B3 1200 AirS (344MHz) LiFe (integrated Pocket Wizard)
900997 Pro-B3 1200 AirS (433MHz) LiFe (integrated Pocket Wizard)




Delivered with

Radio Receiver
Syncro cable
Power cable
Charger (2A)


For more Info please click on http://www.profoto.com/products/profoto/generators/battery/Pro-B3-1200_AirS

Profoto Pro 8a Technical Facts

Profoto Pro-8a
Technical Facts

 Extreme wide power range ( Pro-8a 2400 : 10 f-stops, Pro 8a 1200: 9 f-stops)
-for unlimited Creative freedom
 Ultra-short flash duration ( Pro-8a 2400: 1/12000-1/1600s, Pro-8a1200: 1/12000-1/2200s)
-to freeze fast motions
 Speedy recycling times ( Pro-8a 2400: 0,05-0,9s, Pro 8a 1200: 0,05-0,5s)
-for dynamic shootings with up to 20 flashes per second
 Perfect power stability from flash to flash (+/- 0,02 f-stops)
 Optimal colour stability from flash to flash ( max.(+/-40K)
 Very low colour temperature difference from max. to min power
 No color temperature shift between both heads even at asymmetric power distribution
-all to guarantee stable and repeatable results
 Power control in full or 1/10 f-stops
-for quick or precise adjustments
 Advanced dual switch-mode power supply and microprosessor controlled active cooling
-assures a unbeatable reliability that allows continous,fast photo shootings and extends the life expectancy of the generator
 Pre-ignition technology (“PIPE”)
-optimizes the colour stability and avoids miss firing at low power levels
 Auto multivoltages
-worldwide use without the need to switch the unit or to change the model lamp
 Integrated radio sync and remote
-hassle-free synchronization and control of single or multiple generators and flash even at the shortest sync times and over a huge distance
 Full asymmetric power distribution
-simplifies individual light adjustments
 Comfortable software for wireless computer-controlled operation ( PC & Mac)
-for easy and comfortable set-ups that can be stored and recalled any time

Profoto D1 Technical Facts

Profoto D1
Technical Facts
• Wide power range ( 7 f-stops)
-for creative freedom ( min. power of D1 250- just 3,9Ws !)
• Short flash duration
-to freeze motion
• Fast recycling times ( D1 500 0,2-0,95s)
-For dynamic shootings
• Excellent power stability from flash to flash (+/- 0,05 f-stop)
• First-Class colour stability from flash to flash ( max. +/-30K)
• Low colour temperature shift between max and min power
-All to guarantee stable and repeatable results
• Power control in full or 1/10 f-stops
-For quick or precise adjustments
• Advanced switch-mode power supply and microprocessor control plus active cooling
-Outstanding reliability that allows long photo shootings and extends the life time of the moonlight
• Auto-multivoltage
-Worldwide use without the need to switch the unit or to change the model lamp
• Integrated radio sync and remote ( Air versions)
-Hassle-free synchronization and control of single or multiple moonlights, even at the shortest sync times and over a huge distance
• Unique integrated reflector with glass cover and bright 300w halogen model light

-For fast and safe handling and transport,frosted glass cover improves the light quality (“what you see is what you get”)
• Versatile and uncomplicated accessory and reflector mount
-Accepts all profoto light shapping tools-most reflectors are zoomable for fine adjustment of the light spread
• Comfortable software for wireless computer-controlled operation ( PC& Mac)
-For easy and comfortable set-ups that can be stored and recalled any 

see more at www.profoto.com

Please Advise : Profoto D4,Acute 2 R,Pro 7

Please advise: Profoto D4, Acute 2R, Pro7

Stan Philipov , Oct 13, 2005; 08:19 p.m.

I do mostly portraits, glamour, and fashion, and until recently, used mostly hot lights. I now work with two monolights--a Profoto Compact 300 Special and a Compact 600 Special--and am now looking to add more light!
I'd like to stick with Profoto, and am currently trying to decide between the D4, the Acute 2R, the Pro-7a, Pro-7B, the Pro-7s, and the Pro-B2. I've already invested in some Profoto light modifiers for the Compacts that will work with the Acutes: honeycomb grids, softlight reflector, but will they work for the 7 series?
Which pack reigns supreme?
I'm trying to find a sweet spot for price-performance. It is a major investment, and I really want to make sure I'm buying something that will last and hold a desirable upgrade path. Can some of you out there shed some light on this critical decision? My budget is scalable--I'm willing and able to shell out for the best if it also costs the most, but I'm a bargain shopper at heart and would like to hear from owners and users of Profoto.

Answers

Ellis Vener , Oct 13, 2005; 11:12 p.m.

I've already invested in some Profoto light modifiers for the Compacts that will work with the Acutes: honeycomb grids, softlight reflector, but will they work for the 7 series?
Yes they will.
Unless you do a lot of work on location away from electricity I'd rule out the battery powered units. probably what you want is the Pro 7s units if you shoot really heavily (fast, a lot and for a multi hour sessions); if your work is generally less demanding, and you go on location a lot you proabbly want the Acute 2R packs. then the Acute 2R will be a better purchase. The D4 units are also great and offer more control per channel and are really good if yo ureally think you need 1/10th of a stop output control per channel.

Kipling Phillips , Oct 14, 2005; 04:53 a.m.

for fashion, glamour, and fast paced work the pro-7a. they are extremely fast and durable. the pro-7a has asymmetrical power regulation, the pro-7s only has symmetrical power output. both have 6 stop regulation with 1200Ws or 2400Ws. the 7b is a battery pack. the acute packs are slower (than the lighting fast 7 series) and less expensive but are very versatile with 7 stop asymmetrical power output. the pro-7 and acute strobe heads are also compatible with the d series packs, so if you need big time power with lots of control you can add or rent a d4 pack to your arsenal.
if i were you, i'd rent an acute and put it to the test. if it's up to your pace of work (it's up to mine and i'm very happy with it), then there is no other reason NOT to get the acute. they are well built, small, powerful, versatile and are always the best deal price wise.

Tony Clark , Oct 14, 2005; 10:09 a.m.

It comes down to your budget. The Acutes are a great value and I have both Acute pack and Compact in my studio. I've seen the used 7B kits on the B&H website for $2500. and would seriously consider them.

Jonathan Brewer , Oct 15, 2005; 11:38 p.m.

You mention portraits, glamour, and fashion, in your portfolio, in that case, the assymetric packs, whether you choose one of the Acutes, or a higher end tank, might be the way to go, particularly since increasing or decreasing the power/bracketing while keeping your lighting ratios the same without having to re meter is a snap w/the assymetric packs.
Good luck.
www.imageandartifact.bz

Stan Philipov , Oct 16, 2005; 07:17 a.m.

Thanks for the advice so far! The Acutes are starting to sound like the ones to get for best price/performance. Now the question is, do I go with the 1200R or 2400R? Would I be better off getting two 1200s?

Jonathan Brewer , Oct 16, 2005; 01:21 p.m.

The obvious advantage of the 2400ws pack is when you have more than one head connected up to the pack, I would suggest(if you can afford it) that you get the 2400ws pack, then eventually, a 1200 pack that will act as both a back-up and supplemental pack during a shoot that demands plenty of power.
This is what I have only I worked this in reverse, I got my 1200ws Alfa pack first, then acquired the 2400R, there are always promotions on Profoto gear, nobody that knows better pays the retail suggested price, dealers will discount to move their Profoto gear, some dealers will even open the box, close it back up, and sell the pack as a demo, so if you take your time and shop around, you can save bigtime.
As I've mentioned before, Profoto packs undergo an 'R' test before they're sold, they undergo 360 maximum power flashes in one hour and then the gear is examined to see how it held up.
The Acutes are well made packs, if you want to compare the packs, the Acutes are armoured personnel carriers, the higher end Profoto packs are M1 Abrams tanks, put together to handle anything, anybody throws at them, for any length of time, I've shot all day with my Acutes, and at the end of the day, the only thing worn out was me.
Good luck.
www.imageandartifact.bz

Sumber :http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Dr5q

Profoto 7B and compact 300 for fashion photography

Profoto 7B and compact 300 for fashion photography
Tony Black , Dec 17, 2005; 11:44 p.m.
For indoor and outdoor use, do you guys think this is a good lighting kit?
or i should go for acute 2r and profot 7b which is more expensive ?
any other combinations are welcome. 
Answers
shiver me timbrrrre , Dec 18, 2005; 11:07 a.m.
I'd attempt an answer and I'll limit the discussion to Profoto only.
The Profoto 7b has an asymmetrical output which limits it to 1:1 and 2:1 light ratios. In an outdoor situation, on location, where there isn't an AC socket in sight, the Profoto 7b affords you the advantage of a studio pack in a portable form. I'd assume that in that situation, you'd want to balance your key light (meaning your flash) with ambient background light, with perhaps a fill flash from the second Profoto socket. In one of his pictures, Gilles Bensimon had an assistant toting the Profoto 7b power pack and a ringlight while he tracked the model down a path; the Profoto 7b and an arm holding it could be clearly seen in the side of the picture. Without AC, the Compact 300 is not usable. That limits you to using only the Profoto 7b unless you wish to drag along an heavy generator; that kind of defeats the purpose of having the Profoto 7b. In an outdoor location with no AC and only ambient light, one Profoto 7b may be all you need for lighting up the model.
In an indoor situation where there is AC, whether in or out of the studio, you have the Profoto 7b with two sockets for two heads on the one hand and a Compact 300 or two on the other. The Profoto 7b provides two lights, one key and one fill. One Compact 300 gives you a rim or hairlight with no light for the seamless backdrop or set in a studio; in an environmental interior, there could be ambient light for your background. Or one light for the backdrop or background set with no rim or hair light. Two Compact 300 gives you two lights for lighting the backdrop for an evenly washed backdrop.
I'd choose two Compact 600S over two Compact 300 just so that I may have an extra stop of light (and extra stop of depth of field) to balance it with the Profoto 7b main pack.
In place of the two Compact 600S, you have the Acute2R 1200J pack. This gives you the convenience and control of a pack versus two monolights. If you're using the Acute2R as background lights or rim light, you have to contend with the inconvenience of dressing your flash cables so that they do not snake across your field of view as they are both tied to the same pack. It is easier to set up two Compact monolights without cables snaking across because the only cables are their power cords. In a interior location shoot, there may be situations where you want to set up two background lights far apart; it is far easier to do that with two monolights which are independent of each other. Of course, with monolights, if one light goes down, one light goes down. With the Acute2R, if the pack goes, you are down two lights. The disadvantages of monolights lie in its weight; you need extra sandbags to weigh down the stands, and to re-adjust them, you need to lower them and then raise them.
This begs the question: is the Profoto 7b good enough as one's main pack. Look at its specifications. I find the flash duration, power and other specifications good enough for much of my own work that I could function with the Profoto 7b alone.
My advice is to spring for a Profoto 7b with two heads and two Compact 600S.
The main gripes against the Profoto 7b are its weight and cost. You may also look at the Hensel Porty and the elinchrom Ranger.
The best part about buying Profoto is its light modifier system which, I feel, is made for fashion and people photography. Some do not see the difference and may pooh-pooh that. But I do and if some of you don't, all the power to you all; I am not going to try to convince you.
So, do consider buying into a lighting system and not a matter of packs and heads.
Tony Black , Dec 18, 2005; 04:56 p.m.
thanks very much for the feedback. i think profoto 7b is best unit for outdoors and indoors work. but if you need another head, then i guess going with a 600w or 300w monolight will be the best economical and logical way. thats what i figured and planning to buy.
i wanted to get some feedbacks from people if i am missing something. which you mentioned that monolights are a little heavy and i need some sand bags.. its good to know but not a problem for me.
if i go with pro7b with 2 heads and acute 2r with two heads, it will be too expensive. so as i said pro7b and one compact head will be my way to go i guess.
Michael Hogan , Dec 19, 2005; 02:36 a.m.
Tony,
I've just taken the Profoto plunge with an Acute 2 2400 pack. I have worked for years with available light (monochrome portrait work) and was sceptical about percieved differnces in studio stobes (light is light right?). After playing with the Acute 2 pack and a 5' Octa box all I can say is wow! I wanted a system that would work with my 4X5 and also power down for digital work. I was surprised that I needed a 3 stop ND filter for shallow DOF (f4) with my D100. The problem has been too much power (75ws) even with a large softbox and two diffusion pannels. I did a shoot two days ago with the 4X5 and Polariod type 55pn (http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=3960652 and the results were superb! I would go for the compact 600 since you can trottle it back to 37.5ws or get another stop if you need it - oddly, the compact 300 only powers down to 75ws.
For the type of work I do I have not needed the second head. I am so used to using one light - I don't know what I would do with three - I like to keep things really simple.
What type of work do you plan to do? What sort of cameras do you work with? You really have to think about the *your* style and what suits you. For me that means a single, simple, reliable lightsource that does not get in the way of the image.
-- Mike
shiver me timbrrrre , Dec 19, 2005; 10:25 a.m.
Mike says, "You really have to think about the *your* style and what suits you. For me that means a single, simple, reliable lightsource that does not get in the way of the image."
Very true, Mike, and it bears repeating.
Sorry if I had written in a rambling tone of voice, Tony.